The Chedi Muscat

Rooms and decor

Picture a resort on the quiet northern Al Ghubrah beach of Muscat, spread across 8.7 hectares that Jean-Michel Gathy — the architect behind luxury resorts the world over — laid out himself, every square metre. That's the appeal of The Chedi Muscat, open since 2003 under the GHM brand. Its 158 rooms and suites sit in low-rise sand-toned buildings that fold Omani spirit into Asian calm about as well as anywhere — curved Islamic archways running from the lobby out to the garden, warm sand-toned walls that hold the cool of the night air, and contemporary Arabic geometric patterns used sparingly, never cluttered. Inside, the concept is Asian minimalism: brown, cream and gold tones, good cotton, dark wood, and Omani gold lanterns hung with care. Open the door and you step into a sitting area wider than the standard, with a large bathroom, a stone tub, and a separate rain shower. Many rooms — the Chedi Club Suite especially — have a private balcony with a daybed and full views of the Long Pool and the Sea of Oman. Reviewers agree the rooms are quiet enough to hear the waves and the birds in the garden — it really does feel like staying in a Japanese temple in the middle of the Middle East.

Food and amenities

If this resort has one beating heart, it's the 103-metre Long Pool, billed as the longest in the Middle East. It runs dead straight as far as the eye can see, lined on both sides with tall palms, rows of canvas loungers, and sand-toned stone decking, the clear water open from morning to evening — a zen calm where almost nobody raises their voice. There are two more pools nearby, the Serai Pool and the Family Pool, for families who want easy water time for the kids. On the food side, The Chedi runs eight restaurants for every mood — the standout being The Restaurant, a gold-lantern dome with four open kitchens serving Arabic, Indian, Asian and Western food in a single meal, with chefs working live in every direction. The Beach Restaurant by the water does seafood and Mediterranean, and dinner there by candlelight with the sound of the waves is the spot reviewers call the most romantic. The Arabian Tea Lounge pours traditional Omani tea with sweets in a fully Arabic-styled room. Finally there's a major spa with a traditional Omani hammam, a plunge pool, a steam room, several couples treatment rooms, and treatments built around rose pearls and oils from the Persian Gulf region — plenty of reviews say the treatments are excellent and the room so still they fall asleep mid-massage. Add a private beach running about 370 metres along the Sea of Oman, a gym, a yoga room, and a range of experience classes, and several nights here never get dull.

Location and getting there

The Chedi Muscat sits in Al Ghubrah (North Ghubra Beach) on the northern side of Muscat — a spot chosen on purpose to stay clear of the commercial bustle, so the resort is quiet, with only the waves and the wind off the Sea of Oman for company. Step outside and you're on a 370-metre private beach and into manicured palm gardens. It's only a few minutes by car from the Sultan Qaboos highway, the city's main artery, so getting around is easy despite the tucked-away setting. From Muscat International Airport (MCT) it's about 15-20 minutes by car, and the hotel runs an airport transfer in a luxury car for guests booking a suite or villa. The CBD and the Royal Opera House Muscat are about 10-15 minutes away by car, and the old Mutrah Souq — the traditional Arabic market — and the Corniche along the old harbour about 20 minutes. If you plan to get out and explore the city and Oman's history, a private car or taxi is easiest. But if you're planning a stay-cation built around the resort's own facilities, this Al Ghubrah beachfront is a haven for anyone who loves quiet.

Things to know before booking

Straight talk to help you decide — the most common gripe is the location, a fair way from the city centre. The resort is on the northern side of Muscat, 15-20 minutes by car from the CBD and the Mutrah Souq, so if you're here mainly to explore the city, the markets, and local restaurants, you'll need to budget for taxis and travel time each trip. Anyone who likes to wander out of the hotel for an evening at a street-side restaurant won't find it as convenient. The second is price, which sits firmly in luxury territory, plus food and drink inside the resort that run high by international 5-star standards — anyone on a tighter budget may feel eating out is far cheaper, though you have to weigh that against the travel time. The last is the size of some room categories — the Serai Room in the older building especially, which isn't large for the price, and some rooms have no balcony. If you want more space and full pool or sea views, upgrade to a Chedi Club Suite or a villa from the start; it's well worth it. And the quiet zen mood here may not suit families with noisy young children, since most guests come as couples or on honeymoon.

Our take

After reading hundreds of real reviews across every platform, The Chedi Muscat is a resort that sells "acclaimed Omani-Asian zen design plus the iconic 103-metre Long Pool plus eight restaurants plus a major spa plus a quiet beachfront" with a character hard to match anywhere in the Middle East. If the trip in your head is waking up to walk through a Japanese-style water garden, swimming in a Long Pool that runs as far as the eye can see, spending the afternoon in an Omani hammam spa, and ending with dinner at The Beach Restaurant by candlelight, this is the best fit in Muscat. But if the heart of your trip is wandering the city and the old markets every day, the out-of-the-way location may cost you travel time. Overall we give it 9.3/10, best for couples, honeymooners, and luxury travelers drawn to design resorts who want a quiet escape in an Omani-Asian calm that's hard to find anywhere else.