Sofitel Montevideo Casino Carrasco and Spa

Rooms and decor

Picture a grand Belle Epoque casino of the kind the French liked to build in the early 20th century — a stained-glass dome over the main hall, crystal chandeliers hanging from high ceilings, finely detailed plasterwork on the walls, polished marble floors. That is what greets you in the lobby of Sofitel Montevideo Casino Carrasco. The building went up in 1921, designed by French architects Jacques Dunant and Gaston Mallet in the era when Carrasco was the seaside retreat of Uruguay's upper class. It stood closed for years before Sofitel restored it heavily and reopened it in 2013. All 116 rooms and suites pair the classic shell with modern comfort — open high ceilings, big windows that catch the light and air off the Río de la Plata, and many rooms in the riverside wing looking out on the sunset each evening. The beds are the soft Sofitel MyBed, the linens are smooth, the marble bathrooms carry French amenities, and the care shows everywhere: toiletries come in glass bottles, with no single-use plastic at all, because this is the first hotel in the country to take that stand seriously.

Food and amenities

If one thing keeps people talking, it is the Mageva spa in the basement, and the reputation is earned. Inside are an indoor pool, a Turkish hammam, a sauna and warm-toned couples treatment rooms, with special programs built around local Uruguayan products like Tannat wine — the country's signature grape — and natural oils. More than a few reviews call it one of the best spas they have tried. Out of the spa you reach restaurant 1921, named for the year the building opened and run by Hugo Soca, a chef famous across the country, serving contemporary Uruguayan food in the classic main hall. For anyone who wants to chance their luck, the in-house Carrasco casino is still open — roulette, blackjack and slots, a genuine Monte Carlo air in Latin America. There is also an outdoor pool to sit by with a drink, a full fitness room and large meeting rooms for events. Walk through the lobby and you find a live piano, the smell of coffee and uniformed staff greeting you politely — an atmosphere that is hard to find in hotels these days.

Location and getting there

The hotel sits in the Carrasco district at the eastern edge of Montevideo, right next to La Rambla, the waterfront walk along the Río de la Plata that runs more than 22 kilometres — said to be the longest urban waterfront walk in the world. Step out the door and you find Montevideans out running, cycling or sitting with their mate (the local tea), watching the sunset in the evening. Carrasco itself has charm, one of the best residential districts in the country, with classic European-style houses, smart cafes and good restaurants to explore on foot. What makes the location strongest is Montevideo International Airport (MVD), only about 10 minutes away by car — ideal for an early flight or a late arrival. The city centre at Ciudad Vieja and the famous Mercado del Puerto take about 20-25 minutes by car, so this suits the heritage-luxury traveler who wants riverside downtime with the odd trip into the old town more than someone set on touring it every day.

Things to know before booking

Straight talk to help you decide. The first thing many people note is the distance to the city centre: the hotel is at the eastern edge, about 20-25 minutes by car from the old town and main sights, so anyone planning to walk Ciudad Vieja, the Mercado del Puerto or Plaza Independencia daily should budget enough for Uber or taxi (Uber in Montevideo is not expensive next to Europe, but it adds up with several trips a day). Second is the price of food and the bar in the hotel, which runs fairly high against the spots within walking distance in Carrasco; some reviews suggest eating out now and then for better value and a more genuine local feel. Third, the rooms in the historic wing vary in size and layout because the original structure has to be respected — some have beautiful high ceilings but limited floor space, so ask for the newer wing or a suite at booking if you want a roomy, standard-sized room. Last, a few reviews mention the Wi-Fi being unsteady at times, so if you need to work online during your stay, keep a backup hotspot handy.

Our take

After reading through hundreds of real guest reviews, Sofitel Montevideo Casino Carrasco and Spa is the hotel that sells the story of a historic building, a La Rambla beachfront, the renowned Mageva spa and a short hop to the airport — and sells it fully. If the trip in your head is landing at Montevideo airport and reaching the hotel in 10 minutes, walking La Rambla in the morning past locals with their mate, soaking in the Mageva spa at midday, dressing for dinner at restaurant 1921 in the evening and closing the night chancing your luck in a 100-year-old Belle Epoque casino, this is hard to beat. But if the heart of your trip is walking Ciudad Vieja and the old market every day, the Carrasco location will cost you some travel time in and out of the city. Overall we give it 9.1/10, best for couples and the heritage-luxury traveler who falls for an old building with a story and wants the airport's closeness as a big bonus.