Cheong Fatt Tze - The Blue Mansion

Rooms and decor

The Blue Mansion was built between 1880 and 1904 by Cheong Fatt Tze (Zhang Bishi), the Hakka Chinese tycoon Forbes later called the Rockefeller of the East — a banker and adviser to the Guangxu emperor. The Cheong family sold up and the house sat abandoned for 50 years before a group of heritage architects spent MYR 18 million (about $4.2 million) restoring it from 1990 to 2000, hand-dyeing the walls in 38 coats of natural indigo to get that signature blue. The work won the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Heritage Award in 2000, and the hotel now ranks #2 among Penang properties on Tripadvisor. There are 18 rooms inside the mansion plus a 12-room Annexe Wing, from a 25 sq m Standard up to a 55 sq m Master Suite. The look is South-Chinese eclectic in indigo, red and gold, with 4-to-5-metre ceilings, real antique Chinese and Peranakan pieces and original Peranakan floor tiles, plus King beds, fast Wi-Fi and a 43-inch smart TV. Guests on Trip.com (8.9/10), Agoda (9.0) and Booking (9.2) mostly say it feels like sleeping inside a landmark; the knocks are the small rooms and the daytime crowds.

Food and amenities

The heart of the place is the free guided tour for guests, run at 11am, 1:30pm and 3pm — a guide walks you through Cheong Fatt Tze's story, the feng shui and the 130-year-old materials over 60 minutes. Indigo Restaurant, set in the central courtyard, serves Peranakan and Western fusion sets at MYR 180-280 (about $42-65), open 12pm to 10pm, with breakfast included for guests. The Mansion Bar pours Peranakan cocktails, whisky and wine. The central courtyard is the iconic photo spot, laid out to South-Chinese feng-shui rules, and there is a library of Cheong Fatt Tze history and old photographs. The concierge arranges heritage walking tours, Penang Hill and Kek Lok Si. Note there is no pool and no spa — this is a heritage stay — with free parking for 4 cars and a concierge who will hail a Grab. Overall score 9.0/10.

Location and getting there

The Blue Mansion sits at 14 Leith Street in the Georgetown UNESCO core, right next to The Edison Hotel. The Armenian Street and Cannon Street art is a 5-minute walk, Love Lane 5 minutes, Khoo Kongsi 6 minutes and the Lebuh Chulia food street 6 minutes. Penang Road, home of the famous cendol, is 8 minutes on foot, Komtar mall and the seafront Esplanade both 10 minutes, and the Goddess of Mercy temple 5 minutes. By car, Kek Lok Si and Penang Hill are both about 20 minutes. Penang Airport (PEN) is 18 km away — a taxi runs MYR 50-65 and takes 25-35 minutes.

Things to know before booking

First, the mansion rooms are small — 25 to 35 sq m, because the building is 130 years old. If you want space, ask for the 55 sq m Master Suite when you book; it runs around $214. Second, the courtyard fills with day-trip tourists from 10am to 5pm, with 50 to 100 people passing through; go out sightseeing during the day and come back after 5pm, when it goes quiet. Third, watch out for the newer Annexe Wing — 12 modern rooms out back that aren't the original house, so ask for the Mansion when you book. Fourth, there is no pool and no spa; you come here for the heritage, not for a resort.

Our take

The Blue Mansion is the best fit for couples, history lovers and anyone who wants to actually sleep inside a landmark in Penang. You get a 4-star heritage stay of 18 rooms inside the 130-year-old indigo mansion of Cheong Fatt Tze, the Rockefeller of the East, a free guided tour three times a day, a South-Chinese feng-shui courtyard that played the Crazy Rich Asians and Indochine sets, and a UNESCO-core address 5 minutes from the street art — from about $109. If your trip is romantic, history-minded or built around iconic photos, this is the most complete answer in town. If you need a pool, a spa or a big room, look at The Edison or Seven Terraces instead. Overall we give it 9.0/10, best for couples, history lovers and photographers.